As I commented in a couple of previous posts, the trail is having a bit of a teething problem in that a few short stretches have no trail at all and one is forced to walk along rural roads with no shoulder. This situation is be potentially hazardous and will hopefully be solved in due course. I tended to walk along the grassy side of the road, an awkward way to move but at least it kept me safe from the cars.

While there are some pitfalls to this new route, I don't hesitate to recommend it. The East Highland Way passes through some beautiful and remote countryside and isn't crowded like some of the more popular routes like the West Highland Way.

Like with all Scottish hikes it is essential to pack clothes for all conditions. The weather can change from hot and sunny to freezing rain, and everything in between, in the course of a single day. Sturdy, waterproof boots are also a must. A couple of days I needed sunscreen! Getting sunburned and soaked in the same afternoon is a very real possibility in the Highlands. Other essentials are the Ordnance Survey maps numbers 41, 42, and 35. In addition to covering the entire route, these finely detailed maps enrich any hike by pointing out spots of historical importance. Don't rely on them too closely, however. As I discovered on my final day, the OS maps can be a bit out of date. The guidebook will include sections of these maps with the route clearly marked. Also, a good compass and a sound knowledge of orienteering is essential for any long-distance hiker. Forget the GPS. That's for wimps!

So if you're looking for some solitude and scenery in the Highlands, give the East Highland Way a try. With sufficient preparation, you'll have a great time.

Check out the rest of my series on the East Highland Way!Time for a compass reading. I know where I'm headed--a small loch called Loch Gamhna and a bigger one just north of it called Loch an Eilein. From there I head pretty much due north to Aviemore, the final stop on the East Highland Way. Studying the topography (with the reasonable assumption that the shape of the hills hasn't changed!) I see my route will take me through the gap between two hills ENE of my position. If I follow my compass reading I can get there even if the hills are out of view behind trees.

Just as I finish my reading a middle-aged man appears along the trail with his young daughter.

"Are you lost?" he asks.

"No, thanks. I just needed to take a reading because these maps are outdated."

"Well," he says in a haughty voice, "You should spend a little extra for the most up-to-date version."

"I did, but--"

"Nature is a work in progress, you know," he interrupts.

"Yeah. I was wondering which of these new trails can take me to--"

"Don't you have a compass?"

It's still in my hand. I hold it up.

"I've taken a reading, what I'm wondering is--"

"If you're having trouble reading it I'll check my GPS for you."

"Never mind, have a nice day," I say as I turn and leave.

It's obvious this guy isn't going to be any help. He's playing a game of one-upmanship to impress me and his little girl. She doesn't look impressed, only bored. I know how she feels.

So off I go following my compass readings. Now and then I get glimpses of the two hills I'm shooting for and I see I'm on track. It would be nice to have confidence in the trail I'm on, though. So far it's been heading in the right direction, but if it veers off on another course I'll have to slog through the woods. As I'm taking another reading an elderly man on a mountain bike appears. His face looks about seventy but his body appears half that age.

"Do you need any help?" he asks as he pulls up beside me.

"I'm headed to Loch Gamhna. I've taken a reading so I know where I'm going but I was wondering if this trail actually leads there."

I feel grateful he lets me finish my sentence, unlike the previous guy.

"Yes, the OS maps are all wrong for this area nowadays. I've spent many an hour lost around here. If you follow this trail for another mile you'll come to a cairn at a fork on the trail. Take the righthand path downhill and over a stream. Keep following it and you'll get there. I see the route on your map has you going on the eastern shore of Loch an Eilein. I suggest following the western shore. There's a good trail and you'll get a better view of the castle."

I thank him and he pedals off. That's how people should treat one another out in the wilderness. Helpful and no attitude. The first guy was useless. If I had truly been lost, Mr. Superiority could have been downright dangerous.

I follow my friend's directions and they're right on target. Over the river and through the woods to Loch Gamhna I go. It's a marshy little loch with tall grass growing in its shallows. The stalks wave in the increasing wind. Just past it is the large Loch an Eilein. As it comes into view its sparkling waters turn dull. The sky has clouded over. Great gray clouds swoop in from the north. I take the mountainbiker's advice and head along the western shore to a spot across from a small island. Taking up almost the entire island is a low castle built in the 14th century by Alexander Stewart, the infamous Wolf of Badenoch.

During the Middle Ages he was the terror of Scotland, ruthlessly destroying the opposition in order to assert his authority over much of the Highlands. When the Church opposed him, he even sacked the cathedral at Elgin. This devil in armor is said to still haunt his island stronghold. A local woman tells me that as a child she used to row out to the castle with her family and it always felt uncomfortable there. Someone else tells me the castle gives off a strange echo. I try it, standing directly opposite the gate and giving a short, sharp shout. The shout comes back to me a second later, too slow for it to have bounced off the castle. It must have bounced off the opposite shore, but it sounds like it's coming from within the battlements. Even stranger, the echo sounds louder than my original shout. I shout again and the echo comes back even louder.

Just then the sky opens up in a torrential downpour. I've woken the Wolf of Badenoch in his lair and he's seriously pissed! I hurriedly don my rain gear and slosh on to Aviemore.

And there my hike ends, at a friendly little village at the heart of Scotland's hiking culture. People with backpacks are everywhere, converging on this spot from a dozen different trails. Yet I have seen none of them on Scotland's newest trail--the East Highland Way.

I always feel a tug of regret when finishing a good hike, especially one that has given me six days of serene nature, historic wonders, and insights into my own past. I enjoyed it even more than last year's journey along the Hadrian's Wall Path. I always treat myself to a long-distance hike around my birthday to cheer myself up, and when I turn 42 (ugh!) next year you can bet I'll be back in the Scottish Highlands.


Coming up next: Hiking the East Highland Way, the practicalities.

Don't miss the rest of my series on the East Highland Way!